Glass Beads – Jewellery

Jen Leheny
February 2007

Handmade Cards – Matryoshka

Jen Leheny
September 2009

Handmade Cards – Chinese Cuties

Jen Leheny
September 2009

Kids Tees

Jen Leheny
February 2007

In the photo below, you can see the lino cutting board, which stops the lino from slipping and is much safer. Also pictured is the lino printing ink (orange!) and a brayer (the roller, used to ink the lino) and a baren (used to press the paper). The baren was really expensive (about $40) but it does a great job.

I used a plastic spatula to put some ink onto a plastic overhead projector sheet and used the brayer to roll the ink out. I think I put too much ink on the plastic as the brayer picked up too much ink, but I got the hang of it soon enough.

You can see the lino all inked up here:

The term “pulling a print” is used because you are “pulling” the ink from the lino on to the paper which is on top. So you put your paper or card carefully over the inked lino and use the baren to press it down all over. If you were all set up then you would use a paper press for this step but the baren does a great job and I think a paper press costs a little bit more than $40.

While rubbing the paper with the baren, I was a bit nervous, wondering if I had put too much/too little ink on the lino, was I pressing too hard etc. It turned out okay though…

I ought to cut a new lino of this picture because there are places that I messed up when cutting (the branch looks funny for one thing) but here is the (wonky) print.

I know, my lino cutting skills could do with some work but you get the idea!  Have fun Lino Printing!

How to make a Pillowcase Dress

People have been making dresses like these since forever and I certainly don’t claim these instructions as my own but I have presented them here because I know there are a lot of people looking for these online.

So without further ado…

Pillowcase Dress Tutorial

The traditional method of making pillowcase dresses creates a drawstring casing around the child’s neck, which makes the dresses adjustable for a growing child. This method eliminates the drawstring casing which can be a choking hazard (using elastic instead) while preserving the adjustability of ties.

Start with one pillowcase, cleaned and pressed. You’ll also need 12″ of 1/2″ wide elastic, and one package of bias binding (you get this in the notions section of the fabric store – look for double fold binding tape) or 60” ribbon. You’ll need a couple of safety pins for threading your elastic. Extra rick rack or ribbon is required to decorate the lower edge of the dress (optional).

step 1 Measure your child from the shoulder to the desired length of the dress. measure this distance on your pillowcase from the open end, and cut straight across. this cut edge will be the top of the dress.

step 2 On each side of the pillowcase, at the cut edge, draw armscyes (that is the dressmaker term for armhole). The shape is like a letter “J” with the top of the J at the cut edge of the pillowcase. For a small child, it should be about 3″ deep, for a larger child make it 4″ deep.

step 3 Fold the two top edges 1/4″ to the inside and press (don’t worry about making it exact–just get close enough). fold down and press these edges again, this time 3/4″. Doing this double turn makes the finished edge neat. Stitch along the first fold, from one end to the other, forming a tunnel (this is known as a casing).

step 4 Cut your elastic into two 6″ pieces. Attach a safety pin to one end of one piece and use that to thread the elastic through one of the casings. As you thread the elastic, the casing will draw up, forming a stretchy neckline. You’ll need to pin the other end of the elastic when it gets to the casing so that it doesn’t come all the way out. Stitch across the open end of each casing to hold your elastic in place. Repeat with the other elastic and casing. stitch across the open end of each casing to hold your elastic in place.

step 5 You’re almost done! Cut two pieces of binding, each 28″ long. You’ll notice that the binding is folded lopsided–one side is wider than the other. This is to help make sure you get both sides stitched. Always stitch with the narrow side of the binding facing up and you can be sure you’re catching the back side as well.

Slip one armscye edge into the fold of one of the binding pieces, leaving about 10″ or so overhanging the top – these form the ties. Pin as much as you feel you need to in order to keep things neat. Beginning at one end of the binding, start stitching along the free edge, continuing all the way around the armscye and to the other end of the binding. Repeat for the other armscye.

Instead of the binding, you can fold a casing (as you did earlier in step 4) and thread a piece of narrow ribbon 28” long into each of the arm holes, tying into a bow at the top. Once the ribbon is threaded through, sew a couple of stitches at the side seam to keep the ribbon from being pulled all the way out.

step 6 Sew some ribbon or rick rack approx 3 ½ – 4” from the lower edge, catching the original envelope opening of the pillowcase so that it doesn’t catch when your child puts the dress/top on.

That’s it! The hem is already finished for you.

Now you just have to tie the ties to fit your child and admire your handiwork.

>>> Download the Pillowcase Dress Instructions as a free PDF: 

This is now available to download as a PDF – just click to share.  Then right click and save to download the file, or left click to open the PDF (it will probably open within your browser).

There is no need to leave a comment asking me if you can use this pattern for your charity work or your sewing group or any other reason.  Yes, you CAN use this pattern for anything you like.  A link back here is appreciated though not required.

Handmade Cards – Tree of Love

Jen Leheny
September 2009

Ceramic Painting – Various

Jen Leheny
December 2006 and April 2007

Doily Tees and Singlets

Jen Leheny
January 2008

Handmade Cards – Various 2

Jen Leheny
September 2009